Mariano Rubinacci: Inside An Institution of Neapolitan Tailoring

For the dandy man that appreciates an immaculately cut, stitched and tailored suit, Rubinacci is not a foreign name, but one that is eponymous to Neapolitan sartorial handmade bespoke suits introduced to the world by Mariano Rubinacci, a world-class renowned atelier.

This world-class brand of luxury menswear has taken three generations of the Rubinacci family to get it to the fashion empire that it is today.

In the 20th-century Gennaro — Mariano’s father — an art collector with social connections, and a frequent visitor to the royal families, established the company and named it “The London House” to remind him of Savile Row, the famous tailoring street in Mayfair, London.

His sense of style had made a name in the beau monde, with both young and mature important men entrusting him with their appearance and his advice on style.

It was around the same time that Neapolitans were obsessed with the British style that Gennaro had a radical idea. His purpose was to make unlined jackets featuring a shirt-like shoulder, a wide and comfortable sleeve – that fed into a high armhole and could be worn out of the office.

Photo: Mariano Rubinacci

But seeing he was not a tailor, he hired tailors who brought his dream to life by following his instructions and using English fabric. This design took off, and Gennaro counted some of the most stylish Italian men amongst his customers. Mariano took over his father’s eminent local company after his passing, changed its name to Rubinacci but maintained the London style of the house, which features minimal construction and a comfortable fit, unlike the formal British Jacket.

His vision for the fashion house spread the Neopolitan style across the world, making it a coveted brand among many elite members.

The Fashion House Rubinacci is now managed as a family business by Mariano and his four children. Besides their impeccable execution, they are known for being able to make an entirely bespoke suit within just a week. About 90 per cent of the Rubinacci clientele is foreign, and have to fly in to get fitted.

Having a bespoke suit at the Rubinacci Fashion House in Naples isn’t just a cash-for-goods transaction; it’s an experience. As of 2010, the family introduced a program where for A$7,800 – you may spend six nights and stay at one of seven suites, each decorated by Mariano Rubinacci, while you have a suit made from start to finish to your exact specifications.

Photo: Photo: Mariano Rubinacci

Having a bespoke suit ready in a week is fast, given that a suit that’s fully made on order can take up to 60 hours or more, of work by highly skilled tailors. Staying at Casa Rubinacci means that the customer is immediately available for fittings.

Although the entire family is certainly involved in running and maintaining Mariano’s work, Luca Rubinacci, Mariano’s son, has become a clear and popular face of the brand. Having mastered a sophisticated yet seemingly effortless approach to styling, Luca has made a name for himself within the men’s fashion world, often catching the attention of men’s style enthusiasts with his colourful dressing and stacked bracelets.

Luca is indeed the futuristic driving force of the Rubinacci brand. As the Creative Director in the company, Luca uses his Social Media reach (especially on Instagram) to create brand value by posting whimsical, totally earnest and very informative videos, showing the lesser-fashion inclined how to dress and style their outfits, as well as display some rakish styles of his own.

While the family had for years solely focused on a bespoke tailored suit, it recently, by Luca’s influence, started a line of readymade suits and accessories. The line features knitted ties, handkerchiefs and heady colours that the younger Rubinacci has made famous over his appearances.

Photo: Mariano Rubinacci

The main appeal to Luca Rubinacci’s Milan boutique is its careful selection of products. It features sports jackets, cashmere coats, country-style jackets and tweed trousers – classic in style, but made with an added soul and personality for those who love to make a sartorial statement.

Step into the boutique and you’ll find finely dressed mannequins mounted high above shelves where you can find everything you see on the mannequin hang directly below — a striking and very convenient way of display.

This Rubinacci family dynasty prides itself on upholding a classic gentleman experience that never goes out of fashion. This is communicated through their exquisite garments, aesthetic and customer values. But more than this, Rubinacci still holds strong its Neapolitan culture. Thankfully, it looks like things won’t be changing anytime soon.

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