Savile_Row

Savile Row in Mayfair London is known for its traditional bespoke tailoring shops | Source: concours on savile row

Custom-Crafted Suits: The Finest Tailors in the World

An immaculately tailored suit, cut, stitched and fitted to perfection is the ultimate mens smart outfit. It’s the premium way to exude quiet confidence and make a statement of luxury. And to get the very best suit, custom-crafted for each individual, you need to know where to go.

Whether you’re after a bespoke suit for a special occasion or you just want a skilful hand to help elevate your everyday wardrobe, here’s a look at some of the finest tailors in the world.

Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes commands the prestigious address of 1 Savile Row in Mayfair, London with the street considered to be the birthplace of bespoke tailoring. Originally founded by James Watson Gieve and Thomas Hawkes as two separate tailor shops, Gieves Ltd acquired Hawkes in 1974 to become a joint brand. They create some of the finest custom-made suits with previous famous customers including King George III, Prince William, Sir Winston Churchill, Ian Fleming, and Michael Jackson.

Dormeuil

The French textile company has been creating and designing luxury fabrics since 1842 with clients able to choose from over 2,500 fabrics. While the bespoke suits are handmade in Italy, Dormeuil has boutiques in France at 51, rue François 1er in Paris, and 48, avenue Charles de Gaulle in Neuilly-sur-Seine.

Its platinum service customises all aspects of a suit from pockets, elbow patches, lining, fabric, and shape right up to the type of embroidery, top stitching, and buttonhole styling.

Henry Poole & Co

Another Savile Row resident, Henry Poole & Co was founded by James Poole in 1806 and originally produced military tunics for the Napoleonic wars. When his son Henry inherited the company, it took on a prestigious reputation for working with royalty, with the brand making the first modern-style dinner jacket based on specifications the Prince of Wales gave the tailors in the 1880s. Nowadays, Henry Poole & Co continues to specialise in bespoke shirts, suits, and court and ceremonial outfits with customers able to choose from over 6,000 luxurious fabrics.

Brooks Brothers

Founded in Manhattan in 1818, Brooks Brothers is widely recognised as the oldest apparel brand in continuous operation in America. The tailor is famous for dressing 40 American presidents including Abraham Lincoln, John F Kennedy, Donald Trump and Barack Obama.

Brooks Brothers is also known for introducing the button-down collar in 1896 when John E. Brooks, the grandson of founder Henry Sands Brooks, noticed the style on English polo players.

Ascot Chang

Chinese tailor Ascot Chang made his name as a master shirtmaker, crafting garments first for Chinese businessmen and then opening his first store in Hong Kong in 1953. The chain now has 15 locations around the world with previous high-profile clientele including former president George W. Bush, Academy Award winner Leonardo DiCaprio and artist Andy Warhol. Chang’s style takes cues from classic British tailoring but with a sportier feel, shorter hems and softer shoulders, although customers can choose whatever they like.

P Johnson

Established in Sydney in 2009, P Johnson is one of the finest modern tailors in Australia with showrooms in New York, London, Sydney, and Melbourne and an atelier in Tuscany. Marrying Italian style with unique Australian design, P Johnson’s style is defined by suits that are lightweight and sportive, supple and luxurious, balancing aesthetics and function.

Cesare Attolini

The 87-year-old Italian tailor was established by Vincenzo Attolini, Cesare’s father, in Naples in 1930 and now has boutiques in Milan, New York, Miami and Moscow. It’s famous for its traditional Neapolitan tailoring and defining city style – soft shoulders, wide lapels and vibrant fabrics. Each custom suit is handcrafted in Italy using exclusive fabrics taking around eight weeks to make. Previous clients include King Vittorio Emanuele III and the Duke of Windsor.

If you’re looking for a suit that’s less custom but no less luxurious, check out the suits you need to know about. Or if a relaxed fit is more your style, read up on how Soft Tailoring is Breaking the Mould of Men’s Formalwear.

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